Sabtu, 31 Desember 2016
Raising the Keel
Rabu, 28 Desember 2016
New Gas Main
Looking better!
Today it seems more like a boat. Having seriously pulled and dragged the sheets to line them up overnight, the shape becomes more apparent.
David helps me with tools and checking the jacks are in place.
Bit by bit it comes together.
Jacks used to close the centre seam, then tacked inside.
Span set pulls it together at the bow.
Finished floor of boat. Looking good.
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Label: better, boat making, looking
Selasa, 27 Desember 2016
In the Groove
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Label: boat making, groove, in, the
Senin, 26 Desember 2016
Bathroom Finished
which is now powered by the boats 12v system
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Label: bathroom, boat making, finished
Kamis, 22 Desember 2016
A Boaters Favorite Subject
Following the removal of the 230v toilet in favor of the 12v again I was left with a gap behind the toilet as I had to remove some extra wall to get the plumbing connected to the 230v one.
I made a template a week or so ago and my brothers stone firm cut and polished a cover plate out of a type of man made porcelain.
So why are there tiles missing on the lower left? Well, first of all it was an accident of removing the skirting board but then it became apparent this was a fortunate accident as I have another problem that needs fixing and these broken tiles sowed a seed to part of the solution.
The rubber sanitary hose used to take the macerated waste to the holding tank which is sold a "Smell Free" is now after only a year leaching a nasty smell in the boat and needs replacing. This was supplied by a an expert firm in the field. When questioned about this I was told that basically all flexible sanitary hose will leach smell sooner or later. This I find unacceptable and have taken it up with the supplier. In all fairness to the supplier I dont think they are to blame as they only brand that which is available elsewhere. Neither the less to be told this hose should be regarded as an item that will need replacing anywhere from a year onwards is just not on. Plumbing as far as I am concerned is a fix and forget item!
So in order to get the old hose out and new one in access has to be got. By removing the right hand bathroom cabinet:-
I was able to carefully remove 2 tiles to replace the damaged ones:-
So if anyone wants to buy me a pressie, a Feins Cutter will do. In case youre not sure this is what one looks like.
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Label: a, boat making, boaters, favorite, subject
Selasa, 20 Desember 2016
Happy Floatday
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Label: boat making, floatday, happy
More Electrical Bits
The black relay is operated by phoning the unit. The clever bit on this is it will accept numbers form a white list only. Phoning this relay accepts the number then hangs up (no charge call) and switches the relay either ON or OFF depending on where it was left. This relay can also be TXT operated.
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Label: bits, boat making, electrical, more
Senin, 19 Desember 2016
One model makers opinion
Sometimes there are aspects to our competitiveness that have to be watched. Often a model-maker looks at what another model-maker has in front of them and unconsciously assumes that they are seeing that model-makers best work. This is how we reassure ourselves of our abilities and is natural.
Unfortunately, such comparisons may be flawed...
You will never, ever, see our best works, unless you are our customer, or the work is on display in public. Why? We cant risk traveling with works that are either too fine, or at a stage of construction where the details are too delicate. Dealing with preparations for shipping is scary enough.
When you make models for a living, there is an "economics" to the work. Some models cost hundreds of dollars while others cost tens, even hundred, of thousands of dollars. Its self-explanatory; the amounts of time, effort and quality of materials differ at each end of the spectrum.
You may be familiar with intricate models made from pieces of bone or toothpicks by someone imprisoned for decades. With nothing else to do for 20 years, it was probably therapeutic and the only thing to do. I cant imagine... Occasionally we run into someone that has been working on a single model for over 20 years. Its not the same situation, but what they have is usually wonderful.
Weve got to be careful about our comparisons. Often times between apples and oranges. We look at someone elses great work and become depresssed. Why? Model-making is about learning and getting better. If it is that great, learn from it. Bear in mind that your own work may be better than you realize.
Much worse is to make an assumption of another model-makers capabilities in order to measure your own.
I will say it again, "you cannot know what you dont know". This means that while youve got your chest out about your great skills, someone will come along and "blow you away", because you werent paying attention.
All model makers are different in some way, shape or form. I seriously doubt that August Crabtree could have built a functional V-8 engine and the converse for the engine modeler. They are/were both great model-makers. I think that they would both have respected each others work, knowing the differences.
Your most important competition is with yourself. Work on learning more. Judge yourself fairly. Make models that you like and in the way that you believe they should be made. You will probably change your beliefs every now and then, but if you keep growing, youll be contributing to the world of model-making.
"Always sign your work. Its very sad to see a great model with no way of knowing who made it."
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Label: boat making, makers, model, One, opinion
Gritty Alterations
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Label: alterations, boat making, gritty
Jumat, 16 Desember 2016
Steps Revealed
Another job done was some the bow deck gritting.
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Label: boat making, revealed, steps
Kamis, 15 Desember 2016
DIY Non skid Surfaces for Plywood Boats
Boats are also such places, with the additional factors of regularly being wet right where you need to be and also jumping around in reaction to wind and waves. Despite that, it is a common problem that a boat has inadequate texture on the deck or other walking surface to allow a good grip for deck shoes or bare feet.
Of course, maximum grip will come from maximum texture, or the roughest surface. However, people also sit on these surfaces and the roughest surfaces are the toughest on clothing and also on bare skin. The trick is to come up with a surface that allows secure footing on a wet and heaving deck but will not wear through the seat of your pants or skin your elbows and knees. Add to that the need for it to be applied by an amateur builder, not break the budget and to be attractive in appearance (or at least to not detract from the aesthetics of the boat) and you have a fairly difficult set of requirements to satisfy.
I have had mixed results from the various methods that I have used over the past 40 years of building my own boats. I will run through them and give the successes and failures of each of them.
In the 70s and 80s I used a rather nice non-skid deck paint that was made by a UK (I think) paint company under the trade name "Helmsman". It had a fine grit that was soft on clothing and skin yet gave reasonable grip. Problem was that the colour faded badly and it did wear down, so it needed to be redone very year or two. It was a really good product that seems to no longer be available.
In about 1975 I saw a very attractive deck finish done by a friend of mine on a plywood Cobra catamaran that he was building. He used a simple open-weave petticoat lace and bedded it into the first coat of paint on the deck, then painted over it. It added some non-skid properties that were adequate for the particular boat, which would be sailed sitting on deck or trapezing on the gunwale. It would not have been good enough for a deck that was to be walked on when wet in big seas.
That set me thinking on how to increase the non skid properties of this method, when building my first big boat. My solution was to buy woven polypropylene tree netting. The one that was available to me in South Africa had a honeycomb-shape mesh of about 20x30mm (3/4"x1 1/4"). The strands were also woven from fine strands of polyethylene and were about 2mm thick with a woven texture. I bedded it down into the second coat of epoxy on my deck surfaces, laying it in panels that I marked off with masking tape. Once that coat of epoxy had cured I cut through the strands along the panel edges, removed the offcuts and tape then applied another two coats of epoxy. The resulting surface was very effective for grip but rather harsh. It was tough on clothing and skin so I sanded the rough spots off it. With the roughness removed and the deck painted with polyurethane paint, some of the grip had gone, so I painted over it with the Helmsman paint mentioned above. The final result was extremely good grip but the honeycomb pattern could be uncomfortable to lie on.
While effective, this netting method is very time-consuming because of the need to pull the netting so that it has an attractive appearance, with the cells of uniform shape and in straight lines. The netting can also lift off the epoxy in places before it hardens, so I had to return to each panel repeatedly as the epoxy started to set, running a steel roller over the netting to press it down into the epoxy until it stayed there.
Many boats have non-skid surfaces done with paint, with a grit of some sort sprinkled onto the first layer while it is wet, then finished with an extra layer or two of paint applied over the top. The grit is usually fine river sand, which has round grains to give nice grip without being sharp. Beach sand tends to have sharp corners that make it very harsh, so is not suitable.
For my Paper Jet I used a non-skid paint additive that is available from International Paints. You can adjust the texture by using more or less of the additive. The additive grains are clear, so can be added to varnish also. While suitable for dinghies, the finish is too fine for larger boats, not providing enough grip for safety on a heeled and heaving deck with waves washing over.
For my Didi 38 "Black Cat" I used a variation of the grit method. Instead of grit, I sprinkled coarse Epsom salts onto the wet paint. When it had dried, I painted another coat or two of paint over the salts. After a few days the paint was hard enough to be lightly sanded, to expose the tops of the grains. Once opened up, the salt grains are rinsed out by rain or spraying with a hose, which leaves little craters. The texture of the surface can be adjusted by light sanding to create as much grip as you want. You can also choose the desired texture with the amount of salt that is sprinkled. For good ocean-going grip the salt crystals should almost totally cover the first coat of paint.
This last method was the best of all that I have used. The texture is formed into the finishing coats of paint so slight wear on the texture doesnt wear through the colour. The grit can be Epsom salts, course table salt or even sugar. Basically anything that will dissolve in water and rinse out of the craters will work. I wouldnt recommend the sugar option because there is likely to be a sticky residue on and around the boat for awhile, attracting ants and other insects.
You can also go the route of gluing textured sheeting onto the deck. There are cork-based deck materials that give excellent grip and are available in a range of colours. They are fairly soft, so easy on bare feet but can wear quickly if constantly chafed by a rope that crosses over a cambered deck or cabin roof. There are also imitation teak products that can be glued down either in sheets or in plank form. They do a very close impression of teak decking and require little maintenance.
For localised spots that require more grip than elsewhere, for example on the top of a bowsprit, a good solution is self-adhesive strips that are much like very coarse sandpaper. These strips can be painted to blend into the deck. They give very secure footing but can be harsh on your skin if you choose to sit there naked. That is good reason to reserve this method for the "must have grip" dangerous spots on the boat.
Of all of these methods, my all-time favourite is the Epsom salts method. It is versatile because you can set the level of grip yourself and it has the big advantage that some wearing of the texture doesnt make the deck look tired by exposing base layers of a different colour.
Diposting oleh uicok di 18.53 0 komentar
Label: boat making, boats, Diy, for, non, Plywood, skid, surfaces
Lady Shipwrights
First on the list is Bernadette who is maintaining a thread over at Woodenboat documenting her build. Everything about this build looks absolutely beautiful. See photos here: http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?125392-building-KATY-update/
Next is Julie who is building a Scamp. Her blog is a delight-- shes funny and takes great photographs. Note the awesome Venn diagram in the screenshot below. So true.
Next theres Lezlie who is just finishing up her build and is in the middle of selling everything she owns to move on to a boat Im looking forward to reaching that stage!
The women over at The Big Sailboat Project have done an incredible job of documenting their ambitious build. They are now enjoying their dream on the water.
I found this book on Amazon a while back:
It was pretty fantastic. A decent synopsis can be found here.
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Label: boat making, lady, shipwrights